Day 1

We had a list of all the things we wanted to see, and our guide said in no uncertain terms that in his 27 years of being in this business, he had not come across better prepared tourists. Well, that definitely made our day!

TIP: You can coordinate with your Riad/hotel to book a guide for either a half or a full day. It will save you a lot of time and is well worth the price.

A short walk from our Riad brought us to the Bab Boujloud or commonly referred to as the Blue Gate. This is an architectural masterpiece which marks the entrance to Fes’ old city. The French-built gate is blue on the exterior and green on the interior, and both façades are decorated with elaborate zellij work and are well worth a photo-op. From here on we diligently followed our guide through the labyrinth of the Fes medina, passing by thousands of souks and numerous markets, while covering the following attractions.

The Madrasa Bou Inania is a madrasa (educational institution) founded in AD 1351–56 by Abu Inan Faris. It is widely acknowledged as a major example of Marinid architecture and functioned as both an educational institute and a congregational mosque. Nearby is the Moulay Idriss Zaouia, this is mausoleum which is not accessible to non-Muslims. However, you can get a glimpse of the colorful interiors from outside the main doors. Our next stop was at the Al-Kairaouine Mosque and University. This was founded by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman who had fled her homeland of Tunisia for Morocco, in 859 AD. UNESCO considers it to be the oldest university in the world. From here we walked to the Attarine Madarsa, which is located next to the Qarawiyyin mosque in the middle of the medina, and like the Bou Inania madrasa is very ornate and beautifully decorated. You should also be able to go upstairs to peek at the student quarters as well.

The Fondouk el-Nejjarine (also known as the “Wood Museum”) was our next stop. This faces the old Place el-Nejjarine or the “Carpenter’s Square” and the fondouk was constructed in the 18th century and originally served as a “caravanaserai” or “roadside inn” for travelers and traders. Make sure you make your way to the rooftop, which offers great views of the surrounding medina and beyond. The Fes medina is shaped like a bowl. So, essentially every time you are going downhill, you would be heading deeper into the medina. All the souks in the medina often blend into each other with little evidence you’ve moved from one souk to the other. However, toward the bottom of the medina, you can find the Henna Souk, a nicely shaded souk cozied up beneath a couple of large plane trees. Pottery and traditional cosmetic products can be found here. The Seffarine Square that is close by is an important center for the production Fassi style ceramics, brass-ware, and silverware. Our last stop prior to lunch was at the Andalous Mosque which dates back to the inception of the city in the 9th century, making it one of the oldest mosques in the world. The mosque has been renovated and expanded several times since then and though we could not go inside, it was a humbling experience standing outside its majestic doors.

After a very traditional Moroccan lunch, we headed to the Chouara Tannery. This famous 11th century tannery is where locals have dyed animal hides for the past one thousand years. We went to the rooftop of a nearby building, which offered excellent views of the workers dyeing the leather in the stone wells. We could stand and stare at them for much longer, if it hadn’t been for the pungent smell that is overwhelming.

TIP: If you are visiting the tannery with a guide, you will be offered some mint leaves, which really helps mask the smell. However, if you are going there by yourself be sure to carry some with you. This will allow you to avoid the hassle of taking it on the spot from the locals, who will offer it to you and then ask for money afterwards.

Having seen most of the major attractions that Fes el Bali has to offer, our guide took us back to our Medina, where we were able to give our legs some much needed rest. In the evening we headed out to the souks in Fes. We had done most of our souvenir shopping in Marrakech, however we had left all our ceramic buying for Fes (considering this is the home for all Moroccan ceramics). After a couple of hours of intense bargaining, we were stocked up with some beautiful ceramic tagines, bowls, plates and vases. We wrapped up the day with some Thai food deep in the heart of the Fes medina!

Day 2

Our second morning in Fes was a sharp contrast to the first one. We woke on time, and after a very relaxed breakfast headed out to spend the day in a different part of Fes.

Our initial plan was to cover the Dar Batha museum which houses many Moroccan artifacts, sculpted wood, plaster, jewelry, carpets and pottery. However, this museum was closed for renovations during our stay, so instead we decided to visit the The Mellah. Also known as Jewish Quarters, this area was established in 1438 is the oldest of the Mellahs in Morocco. Though this area was completely inhabited by Jews once upon a time, today most of them have moved out. In the morning, it was bustling with activities as we strolled through the streets adorned with ornate balconies and wrought-iron windows and made our way to the Ibn Danan Synagogue. The doorway of the synagogue is indistinguishable from the nearby doorways and the interiors isn’t the most elaborate either. However, a narrow flight of stairs takes you to the rooftop, which offers some good views of the nearby cemetery.

TIP: You will have to pay a fee (in the form of a donation) to go to the rooftop.

The Jewish quarters are located very near the royal residencies (which enabled its original inhabitants to be protected from the wrath of the Muslim populace), which allowed us to easily walk to the Fes Royal Palace. This is a functional residence of the royal family and not open to the public. However, the main attraction here are the massive brass gates ornamented with zellige tilework and carved cedar woods. We spent close to an hour here admiring the beautiful doorways and getting some excellent shots.

The last place on our list of things to see in Fes was the Menerid tombs. This was a couple of miles away from the Palace so we called Soufien, who was kind enough to pick us from the Palace and drive us to the tombs. The tombs house many sultans and other members from the Merenid dynasty and while the tombs lack in aesthetics, the views more than makes up for it. Below, the whole of the Fez Medina stretches out in front and you can gaze upon the many minarets peeking out from the maze of buildings.

TIP: Avoid being at the tombs after dark. There are several homeless people that come here late in the evening and its best to avoid the area at that time.

It was our last day in Fes, and we had kept the remaining day free to enjoy a private hammam and spa next to our Riad. While the adults were rejuvenated from the special treatment, the kids got a good break as well. For our final evening, we headed back to the Blue gate area which has several restaurants all serving fairly similar Moroccan-style food. It was the perfect spot to enjoy a tagine and bid adieu to the “Mecca of the West”.