Driving from Seward to Anchorage

Driving from Seward to Anchorage

This was our last day in Alaska, and the weather was gloomy and windy in the morning. It probably reflected our mood!

Our plan was to spend the morning in Seaward visiting the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, home to a large variety of species including whales, seabirds, Stellar sea lions and sea otters, and then drive back to Anchorage, return our rental and take a late evening flight, back home to Los Angeles.

Tufted Puffin
Horned Puffin
King Eider

Our 7 year old had a great time at the Wildlife Refuge and we were able to see a lot of the birds and mammals up close. By the time we headed out and were ready to start our drive back to Anchorage, the weather had gotten worse, and it had started to rain. While, we were very fortunate and thankful, to have had mostly beautiful weather for the past 7 days, we were also a little upset that we would miss seeing most of the sights on the Seward highway. This highway extends 125 miles from Seward to Anchorage and runs through the scenic Kenai Peninsula, Chugach National Forest, Turnagain Arm, and Kenai Mountains. Some of the highlights worth stopping at are:

  • Views of Kenai Lake – There are several sections along the highway that offers splendid views of the beautiful Kenai Lake. The lake was formed from glacier water is a majestic blue and green tone and provides great photo opportunities on a clear day. Unfortunately for us, all we saw was gray!
  • Portage Glacier – Getting here requires a drive to Whittier, through the one-lane, 2.5-mile, Anton-Anderson Tunnel. After going through the tunnel, drive ¼ mile and take the first right past the railroad tracks to a gravel road marked “Forest Access,” and park at the end of the road. A short (1 mile) but steep (750 feet in elevation) hike gets you an amazing view of the portage glacier. Those of you with time to spare, can consider taking the trail for another three miles to get to Portage Lake, which provides an even better vantage point to view the glacier.

Considering the weather, we did not end up doing this and reached Anchorage with plenty of time to spare. After enjoying our last Alaskan ale of the trip, we bid adieu to the largest state in the US (yes, it is more than 230,000 sq miles larger than Texan and California combined!). We have some great memories of this trip and I am sure we will be back here again someday!

Harlequin Duck

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park was established in 1980 on the Kenai Peninsula in south-central Alaska, near the town of Seward. The park contains the Harding Icefield, one of the largest ice fields in the United States and is named for the numerous fjords carved by glaciers moving down the mountains from the ice field. The field is the source of at least 38 glaciers, the largest of which is Bear Glacier. Only a very small part of the park is accessible by car, and the Exit glacier sits at the end of the only road this park has. The most practical way to see the remainder of this park (including the other glaciers) is by a boat or cruise.

 Seward
 Exit Glacier

There is a wide variety of cruise options available ranging from 3 hours to 10 hours, to fit one’s schedule and budget. The cruise will also allow you to see the wide variety of terrestrial and marine mammals, including brown and black bears, moose, sea otters, harbor seals, humpback and killer whales, steller sea lions, puffins, eagles, seabirds. Some helpful pointers for the cruise include:

  • Ensure that the cruise is headed all the way into the park, so you see the best of the wildlife and get close to a tidewater glacier
  • Try to book a morning cruise. That way, if the weather is bad, you can ask to be switched to a later boar and shuffle you itinerary to do other activities in the morning
  • Make sure also to take a seasickness remedy such as Dramamine or Bonine, a couple of hours before getting onboard
  • Dress in layers as it gets windy and weather can change very quickly
  • Though you will probably find sandwiches and drinks on the cruise, it’s a good idea to bring some additional food (especially if you are travelling with kids)

We booked the Kenai Fjords National Park Tour (6-hour tour, leaving Seward at 8am and returning at 2pm), which took us all the way inside the Park. Though the ship was packed, there was plenty of space to head out to the upper and lower decks to snap some pics of the breathtaking scenery, abundant wildlife and the alpine and tidewater glaciers.

We went all the way to the Holgate glacier, where we witnessed glacier calving or ice calving (breaking of ice chunks from the edge of a glacier) for the first time. White it is breathtaking to see hundreds of pounds of ice break away and make the roaring sound of thunder, as it falls into the ocean, it is also a sad reminder on how so many of the glaciers are disappearing. 

6 hours and 300 pics later, we were back on land. After taking a break at our hotel, we spent the evening visiting the Exit Glacier. Located just a few miles from Seward, Exit Glacier offers a rare opportunity to view another glacier up close. While you are not allowed on the ice, you can walk on the gravel bar just below the glacier, and an easy hiking trail brings you very close to the ice. The trail continues and becomes a more strenuous four-mile trail all the way to the top, where you’ll reach the edge of the massive Harding Ice Field.

This was our second last day in Alaska and we couldn’t have had a better day! We ended it at Ray’s Waterfront restaurant – this is a very cozy place with amazing views and great food!

Driving from Copper Center to Seward

Driving from Copper Center to Seward

Getting from Copper Center to Seaward involves being briefly on the Richardson highway (going north for about 22 miles) and then taking the Glenn Highway at Glennallen and driving through the outskirts of Anchorage to reach Seaward. Every road in Alaska is scenic, and the Glenn Highway is no different.  Driving westwards on this highway, expect to be up close to a glacier (yes another one!), see Dahl sheep, several creeks and waterfalls and if you go a few miles away from the highway, you can also visit a nature center.

 Eureka Summit Up Close
 Matanushka Glacier
 Eagle River Nature Center

Our first stop was at the Eureka Summit (mile 129.5) – This is one of Alaska’s premier recreation meccas. This summit receives several feet of snow each winter, and rugged trails open access to the terrain during summer. Eureka Summit is also the highest point along the Glenn Highway. While we did not have time to do any of the activities, we did see a bunch of RVs and trucks pulling trailers with ATVs.

Further along the highway at mile 102 is the Matanuska Glacier. Follow the directions to go into the Glacier park, and after paying a small fee, you can hike for 15-20 minutes to get to the edge of the glacier. I would recommend doing this, especially if you have not done a glacier hike already. Where else in the world will you find an accessible glacier almost next to a highway! About a mile down the road is also a scenic turnout if you just want to view the glacier from the road. Also, a little further down the road, the Matanuska State Park is the best place for a free view of the Matanuska Glacier. This place offers plenty of parking, public restrooms, and excellent glacier views and photo opportunities.

Also, along the way is the Jackass Creek – this is worth a quick 5 minute stop, in order to take a photo beside this classic sign. It will make for great story telling when you sit down to share your trip details with friends and family! A local theory on the creek name is that the crusty, old sourdough who lived down near the creek used mules for guiding hunts. These mules purportedly escaped a lot, so the asses were always by the creek. Who knows? ? For the next three miles, you will also have a chance to see Dall Sheep. Look straight up to the cliffs above on the left. These animals, as well as mountain goats, are protected from hunting in this area, part of the Sheep Mountain Game Protection Area. Dall sheep hang out on these cliffs to avoid predators.

Our final stop along the Glenn Highway was to visit the Eagle River Nature Center. This is about 12 miles from the highway along the Eagle River road, and we spent about 2 .5 hours (inclusive of the drive time) here. The Eagle River Nature Center is one of several gateways to Alaska’s largest state park, Chugach and here you’ll find many views of the glacially carved mountains and have opportunities to spot wildlife. My 7-year-old and I enjoyed a short loop trail, that was lined with many varieties of flora and led to wooden viewing decks, from where we caught glimpses of beavers and salmons. The Nature Center also has a cute gift shop and an ice cream parlor.

It was already late afternoon by the time we were done, and the weather abruptly changed from being nice and sunny to dark and gloomy. Luckily, we were done visiting all the places we wanted to on the Glenn Highway, and since we were still about 150 miles from our next stop (Seward), we got into our car and hit the road.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

While planning a trip to Alaska, most people have Anchorage, Denali and Seward on their agenda, however only a few venture out further east towards Copper Center and Chitina to visit Wrangell St. Elias National Park. Being the National Park buffs that we are, there was no way we would be in Alaska and miss visiting the largest National Park in the US. (At 13.2 million acres, this park is the same size as Yellowstone National Park, Yosemite National Park, and Switzerland combined!).

Planning a visit to Wrangell St. Elias National Park takes a little bit of effort but is totally worth it!

The Park contains the abandoned copper mines of Kennicott (declared a National Historic Landmark District) surrounded by scenic mountains and glaciers. There are several guided tours that include hikes (to the mountains and glaciers), and well as other activities like tours of the Kennicott Mills or rafting in the Copper River. Considering we had only 1 day here, we chose to spend the day hiking the Root Glacier, and this turned out to be the highlight of our Alaska trip.

     Views from McCarthy Road
     Kennicott Copper Mines
     Root Glacier
     Root Glacier

    Now for the logistics – the route to reach Kennicott is the following: Copper Center (or any other town on the Richardson Highway)  Chitina McCarthy  Kennicott. Most private cars cannot get to Kennicott as there is a footbridge near McCarthy, and majority of the road after Chitina is a gravel road that rental car companies generally do not allow their cars to be driven on. The best option is to book a guided tour that also includes the transportation. While this is a tad bit expensive, it is will allow you to visit the park conveniently, especially if you are pressed for time. We did just that and booked a guided tour of the Root Glacier.

    We were put up at the Princess Wilderness Lodge in Copper Center the previous night. Our day started really early and we drove from our hotel to Chitina (about 50 miles). From Chitina, there are two options to reach McCarthy – an air taxi which takes about 30 mins or by taking the road, which generally takes about 3 hours. We chose to take the road and our trip started with a short drive through the historic railroad town of Chitina, where we crossed the massive Copper River. The McCarthy Road begins on a scenic bluff overlooking the glacier-fed Copper and Chitina Rivers. This is an interesting, narrow road through true Alaskan wilderness. We mostly followed the historic path of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway and saw several beavers and rabbits, along the way. We finally made it to the McCarthy Footbridge from where we took another shuttle (across the footbridge) to get to Kennicott in about 20 minutes.

    After receiving our hiking gear (which included crampons), we set out on the Root Glacier trail. Our group consisted of 8 people and our awesome guides were two sisters who went to school in Indiana and spent the summer in Alaska. (How cool is that!) The main street in Kennicott turns into a well-maintained, hiking trail just outside of town. This trail winds alongside the Kennicott and Root Glaciers, and hiking it is a great opportunity to experience the grandeur of the Wrangell Mountains and see more of the valley. All through the hike you are rewarded with great mountain and glacier views, and have the chance to spot bears cruising on the lateral moraine below. The turnoff to the toe of the Root Glacier is about 15 minutes past Jumbo Creek and clearly marked.

    When we reached the glacier, we put on our crampons and my then 7-year old’s first reaction was ‘I feel like spider man and can climb anything!’ Hiking on the glacier is one of the coolest things I have done. It was a clear and beautiful day and the views all around us was amazing. We walked on the ice valleys, saw the melting ice form streams which turned into waterfalls to form clear blue lakes and also carve out deep canyon-like ravines in the ice. One can hike on the ice by themselves as well, (and we did see a few people), however we felt so much safer being with a group and with the experienced guides who told us all about the ice formations as well as the dangers of moulins (while taking us up close to see one). The icing on the cake was having a freshly made hot drink using the clear glacier water along with our packed lunches!

    You could literally spend hours here discovering the fascinating details on its surface and discovering new caverns and lakes. However, as the day winded down, we headed back towards Kennicott. Wrangell Mountain Air provides an hourly van service between the footbridge, McCarthy, and Kennicott. (Every half-hour July 1 – August 15.) The cost is $5 per person, each way, and they accept cash and credit cards. We made it back to McCarthy where we took a quick break at a local brewhouse. After a few refreshing drinks, we boarded the shuttle back to Chitina. At Chitina we got back into out rental and headed back to our hotel in Copper Center. It was a fulfilling day!!

    Driving from Fairbanks to Copper Center

    Driving from Fairbanks to Copper Center

    The Richardson Highway runs for a total of 368 miles and connects Fairbanks to Valdez. For our trip we did the about 290 miles of this highway starting from Fairbanks, and were amazed by the incredible views of glaciers, towering mountain ranges and lakes spreading over hundreds of miles. In fact, there are two 100-mile sections on this highway that have been designated as State Scenic Byways. The Richardson Highway also happens to be the first major road built in Alaska.

     Black Rapids Glacier

    We started early in the morning from Fairbanks and crossed several small towns (the most notable being North Pole – about 20 miles south of Fairbanks). You got to stop here to take a quick pic! Luckily, there is a sign just next to the road 😀

    Heading further south one of the first stop was at Black Rapids Glacier (mile 225.4). Try and find the sign describing the advance of Black Rapids Glacier. During the winter of 1936, this mile-wide, 300-foot-high glacier moved at an average of 115 feet a day over 4 miles, to within a half-mile of the highway! It was dubbed the Galloping Glacier and has been receding ever since.

     Trans Alaska Pipeline
     Richardson Highway Monument
     Summit Lake
     Mt Drum

    Less than 10 miles south of here, one can view the Trans-Alaska Pipeline in a zigzag pattern at the Denali Fault/Pipeline View (mi 216). Even further along, the pipeline can be viewed from several sections along the road and we stopped a couple of times to see it up close and snap some really cool pics. At mile 209.1 is the Rainbow Ridge Scenic View – This 6,000 foot high ridge was named for its varicolored talus slopes. The highest point is Rainbow Mountain at 6,700 feet. The reds and greens are volcanic rock and the yellows and pastels are siltstone. Richardson Monument (mi 200.4) is a must stop. There is a signboard mentioning how the highway was named after the former Alaska road commission director, Captain Wilds P. Richardson. Also visible from here are cool views of a glacier. Just down the road from here are the Summit Lake and Paxson Lake, that offer some great photo ops.

    It was also while driving along this route, that we saw a black bear cross the road about 50 feet ahead of us. Where else but in Alaska will you have a bear cross a state highway!!

    Just outside Glen Allen, you’ll find some great views of the Copper River and the Wrangell Mountains, as well as the opportunity for some great pics. Mt. Drum will be visible straight in front, with Mt. Sanford on the left side, and Mt. Wrangell on the right. Cloud cover is the only way you’ll miss this dramatic scene. And these mountains are definitely dramatic! The western face of Mt. Drum rises 9,000 feet in less than 10 miles, while the southern face of Mt. Sanford rises 8,000 feet in just 1 mile. Sure, lots of mountains in, say, Colorado top out at 14,000 feet, but they may start at 9,000 feet. These mountains emerge from a valley floor with an elevation of just 1,000 feet, so the mountain itself is much bigger; Mt. Wrangell is estimated to contain seven times the volume of Mt. Rainier!

    We were fortunate to have perfect weather this day, and it produced some really nice photos. Out last stop for the day was the Princess Wilderness Lodge in Copper Center. The amazing mountain views from here makes this property special. This was the perfect place to spend a couple of nights and soak in America’s largest national park – Wrangell-St. Elias.